The Karoo Heartland of South Africa: An Arid, Yet Rich Place
People often refer to the Karoo Heartland as the "dry heart" of South Africa, as it's a semi-desert land that features a rugged landscape, shaped from vast, flat plains and rocky mountains. If you're looking for a travel experience that's slightly off the beaten track, a visit to this lesser-traveled part of the world would certainly fit the bill.
Apart from its beautiful, diverse landscape, the Karoo Heartland also features quaint, little towns, or "dorpies" as locals call them, that boast many historical, cultural, and natural treasures.
Nieu-Bethesda
Nieu-Bethesda is a small town in the Gat River Valley, located at the foot of the majestic Sneeuberg Mountains. Possibly because of its relative lush vegetation in an otherwise barren Karoo landscape, this area has inspired many a creative spirit. Although the town does not feature a single tarred road, nor one streetlight, it has been home to many artists and crafters over the years.
Helen Martins, who created a fantasy world in her home and backyard, is without a doubt the most famous artist who lived here. Today, visitors who enter the Owl House --the name is due to the abundance of owl statues on the property -- may experience a sense of wonder, intermingled with the eerie, uncomfortable sensation of gaining access to the deep recesses of another person's soul. Just about every inch of the interior of the house is covered in small shards of glass of various colors, with strange figurines and sparse furniture occupying the empty spaces in between.
Outside, the Camel Yard is home to hundreds of fantastical figures, including mermaids, owls, sun-worshippers, pyramids, and monsters, shaped from cement and covered with colorful glass pieces. During her living years, these creations estranged her from the conservative Afrikaans community in Nieu-Bethesda. Her depiction of a progression of shepherds and wise men heading East especially angered their religious sensibilities.
Although Martins was ostracized by the community in this little town, the 15,000-odd visitors that the Owl House attracts today has served as the main reason that Nieu-Bethesda survived a major decline in prosperity during the 1950s. Featuring 16 guesthouses, many coffee shops, a bar, two art galleries, and a backpacker hostel, the small town of Nieu-Bethesda is able to offer visitors a comfortable stay and interesting sites --all thanks to one eccentric woman who received no recognition in her lifetime.
Cradock
As you drive into Cradock, you'll probably wonder how this little, one-horse town could be considered a cultural haven. Do yourself a favor, though, and ignore the donkeys that insist on the right of way in the main street, or the plastic bag that an odd, yet welcome, breeze might blow against your windscreen. Despite the dilapidated first impressions that Cradock presents to visitors, the town is home to a few veritable cultural treasures and a colorful community.
Nestled on the banks of the Great Fish River, this unassuming town has been home to a handful of South Africa's literary giants. The great South-African poet, Guy Butler, spent his first 18 years in Cradock and lived with his folks right across from his grandparents' Victorian homestead, which dates back to the 1840s. Today, the homestead is a beautiful guesthouse that still features some of its original interior features, such as magnificent fireplaces, as well as a large, tranquil garden where visitors can find peace and quietude.
The prolific Afrikaans author, Etienne van Heerden, also spent the first years of his life on a farm at the foot of Buffelskop, which lies roughly 15 miles outside of town. Many of his works draw on the landscape and people from his childhood, as well as a historical figure who lived in the town long before he was born, namely Olive Schreiner. From 1868 to 1870, this famous author lived in Cradock with her three siblings, in what is today known as the Schreiner House. At this delightful museum, visitors can view original furniture and décor pieces, as well as Schreiner's personal library.
Those who want to spend the night will do well to stay over at Die Tuishuisie & Victoria Manor that features antique settler furniture and memorabilia -- don't be surprised to find a first edition of a book dating back to the 1800s on your bedside table -- and authentic "boerekos," which is the traditional cuisine of the Afrikaans people.
Steytlerville
Steytlerville, which lies at the eastern entrance of the Baviaanskloof, is the perfect place to visit if you feel like just kicking back and relaxing. This beautiful little Karoo town boasts a rich semi-desert vegetation that includes ancient cycads, wild plum trees, and succulents.
The area also features distinct rock formations that date back millions of years ago when the Karoo was still at the bottom of the Algoa Sea. The high temperatures of the water back then rendered the rocks soft and pliable, allowing them to form interesting shapes and patterns as the earth plates moved. You can experience the fauna and flora of the area by taking a hike in the Wild Fig Forest, which boasts a well-maintained trail among lush wild fig trees that make for plenty a shady picnic spot.
Apart from its natural beauty, Steytlerville's also home to quaint Edwardian- and Victorian-era houses, complete with large verandahs with ornate ironwork and stained-glass windows, as well as the famous Karroo Theatrical Hotel. Constructed in 1943 on a portion of the Vaal Heuwel Farm, which lies just outside of the town, the hotel functioned as the only drinking hole in an otherwise "dry" community until 1986 when the ban on alcohol was removed.
In 2003, performing artist Mark Hinds and his partner, singer/impersonator Jacques Rabie, bought the by-then dilapidated hotel and executed most of the extensive renovations themselves. Today, guests can enjoy the tasteful and unique décor, comfortable rooms, and authentic Karoo fare offered at the hotel. And that's not all: be prepared to be bedazzled by the Steytlerville Follies in the hotel's intimate Grimaldi's Theater Hall. If you look closely, you'll see a resemblance between owners Mark and Jacques and the performers, pianist Freddie Ferrari and Karoovian diva, Dame Leyla Lamborghini.
Graaff-Reinet
Founded in 1786, this sleepy town on the banks of the Sundays River is the fourth oldest magisterial district in the country. Boasting over 220 heritage sites, the town features more national monuments and museums than any other town in South Africa.
Visitors can, for instance, visit the Old Library Museum that houses a fossil and Stone Age collection, as well as a rock art exhibition. Or, for more recent history, you can pop by the Great River Museum that showcases the history of the pioneer settlers of the area. Art lovers will be interested in the Hester Rupert Museum, which exhibits the work of over 100 South African artists. Those who'd like a guided tour of the town can engage the services of one of the several excellent tour guides in town.
A must-see for lovers of nature is the Valley of Desolation, which is located in the Camdeboo National Park that surrounds the town. A well-maintained tar road provides access to a panoramic viewpoint from where you can view the dazzling cliffs and giant dolerite columns created by volcanic activity over 100 million years ago.
Those who like to camp without roughing it too much can overnight in one of the quaintly furnished tents provided in the park. Each tent features a fridge, a comfortable bed, and a little wooden porch with a table and chairs where guests can enjoy the natural surroundings in style. However, if you'd prefer a slightly more luxurious experience, book into the Samara Private Game Reserve that lies roughly a 40-minute drive from Graaff-Reinet. This private reserve is home to an abundance of wildlife, including cheetah, zebra, giraffe, and elephant, and offers first-class accommodation.
Traveling to these half-forgotten places, tucked away in the Eastern Karoo, is not only super-affordable but also a great way to unwind and break away from the hustle and bustle of the busy city life. Whether you're a lover of nature or a "culture vulture," these little "dorpies" offer something that will interest, and even inspire, you.